Peñon de Ifach - Via Valencianos (5+)
On paper, Via Valencianos doesn't look like much of a route. The first pitch is choss, the second a ramble through the cactus The third pitch is a horrible thrutch, which is much harder than anything else on the route besides being quite out of character. Then there are a couple of pitches on the slab, followed by another good pitch and a couple of run-outs of easy scrambling. However, the situation is so impressive, and the slab and the pitch above such good climbing, that the abiding memory is of a superb route.
Julie and I got there early to be ahead of the expected crowds, and started climbing at about 9:30. However, no one else appeared, and we had the route to ourselves all day. The only other climbers we saw were a French pair on Diedro UBSA.
For some reason, Julie was keen to lead the sweaty crack that forms the crux and, being well brought up, naturally I let her. The less said about this horror the better. Eventually we arrived breathlessly on the ledge above and could start the proper climbing. The first move onto the slab is harder than you expect, but once established it's just great climbing, following bits of tat and the occasional peg up to a comfortable belay mid-way, and then on to the top of the slab with its spectacular views. Then a short scramble brought us to the foot of the final pitch of real climbing, another fine pitch which I'd found hard the first time I did it but which I now cruised up.
We scrambled up to the top and lounged in the sun enjoying the views and a late lunch. What a wonderful climb!
Index of Photos
All photos by Howard Jones except where stated
Aerial view of the Peñon. Via Valencianos goes up the slab on the left profile
Postcard
Julie on the slab
Julie at the top of the slab
View from the top of the Peñon, looking over Calpe towards Toix, Mascarrat Gorge and the Bernia Ridge
